Roadway driving in South Africa continues to intrigue me. Firstly, we drive on the left side of the road, I’m sure due to the legacy of British colonialism in the early twentieth century. A traffic light is called a robot. I’m not sure exactly where that comes from, but directions to any location will certainly include references to some robot somewhere so it is an important lesson. Crosswalks exist, but their function is sort of analogous to the death warning on a pack of cigarettes; they don’t really deter people from doing what they want to do. Therefore, there is nothing significant about people playing Frogger as they dodge cars hopping from lane to lane to get to the other side.
The best lesson, however, is that rules of the road are less like rules, and a little more like, say… guidelines. Painted lines differentiating roadway lanes are more like gentle reminders than strict and ardent rules of law. Driving on the shoulder is permissible, even encouraged, to allow another car to pass. Furthermore, it’s much better to step on the throttle while entering a round-about than it is to stop or slow down in effort to be ‘courteous’. Otherwise, you’ll get an earful from other drivers. And hooting- that is, honking ones horn- is highly encouraged… under any circumstance.
And then there’s taxi’s, the deeply loathed lifeblood of South African transportation. In South Africa there’s a big difference between a ‘taxi’ and a ‘cab’. A cab is a for-hire vehicle that takes one person from one location to another location specified by the passenger. A taxi, on the other hand, is a mini-bus that runs along certain routes that may or may not be altered at the discretion of the driver. Taxi’s seat about twelve and often carry about twenty or more through the city to varying suburbs and townships. Now I’m getting to the loathing part.
Any road rule, or even guideline, exempts taxis. And this refers to much more than occupancy levels, which can double- or more- the legal limit. Taxis are the beasts of the highway. They will scream pass you on the shoulder of the freeway in rush hour traffic. Taxis are obliged to cut in front of any car for nearly any reason or at any time. They stop suddenly and without warning in the middle of the roadway to pick up a potential customer. And regardless of the law, one must always yield the right of way to a taxi. These merciless metal brutes rule the road, literally, it’s just the type of South African driving lesson one must learn from experience.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Democracy in Action
It’s nearly election time in South Africa. The elections taking place are for local appointments following the 2009 national elections that put the African National Congress (ANC) at the helm of the country for the fourth term. Even if one is oblivious to the local news, it is very apparent. Various party posters have begun to spring up on each and every street light and electrical pole. With Election Day nearing, the posters are often three or four deep, each one climbing latterly one on top of the other up the pole. Each poster has the name of the party, a picture and often a slogan of some sort.
I don’t know what they all say, unless I see the exact sign in English. Posters are written, most often but not exclusively, in Afrikaans, Xhosa or English. Other areas with different demographics wield signs in other languages. In a country with eleven official languages, and many more spoken languages, I am getting used to a multi-lingual existence. Television programs are produced in different languages. Many local programmes, and particularly sports, are in multiple languages. So one minute somebody will be speaking is Tswana, the next Afrikaans, next Zulu and then English and finally back to Tswana.
There must be at least as many political parties as there are languages in the country. There is a vigorous engagement in the election process. The political discourse is laden with reminders of the decades-long battle for democracy and freedom. Rhetoric is flung from all political perspectives. One party wants the Western Cape, the province where I live, to secede from the rest of South Africa in effort to “end ANC rule forever”. But the discussion typically revolves around political processes, employment and services, mostly the latter.
There are many differences between the United States elections and South African elections. There will be two ‘positions’ up for grabs; city mayor and local positions broken into wards. Names do not appear on the ballot as only parties are voted into elected positions. In some cases, the party does not even announce who will be assigned the position before the elections. Parties are voted on according to ideological principles and policies. The biggest difference, though, is that voting day is a national holiday in South Africa. And with relatively few holidays, as compared to South Africa, I think that’s a difference the United States could learn from!
I don’t know what they all say, unless I see the exact sign in English. Posters are written, most often but not exclusively, in Afrikaans, Xhosa or English. Other areas with different demographics wield signs in other languages. In a country with eleven official languages, and many more spoken languages, I am getting used to a multi-lingual existence. Television programs are produced in different languages. Many local programmes, and particularly sports, are in multiple languages. So one minute somebody will be speaking is Tswana, the next Afrikaans, next Zulu and then English and finally back to Tswana.
There must be at least as many political parties as there are languages in the country. There is a vigorous engagement in the election process. The political discourse is laden with reminders of the decades-long battle for democracy and freedom. Rhetoric is flung from all political perspectives. One party wants the Western Cape, the province where I live, to secede from the rest of South Africa in effort to “end ANC rule forever”. But the discussion typically revolves around political processes, employment and services, mostly the latter.
There are many differences between the United States elections and South African elections. There will be two ‘positions’ up for grabs; city mayor and local positions broken into wards. Names do not appear on the ballot as only parties are voted into elected positions. In some cases, the party does not even announce who will be assigned the position before the elections. Parties are voted on according to ideological principles and policies. The biggest difference, though, is that voting day is a national holiday in South Africa. And with relatively few holidays, as compared to South Africa, I think that’s a difference the United States could learn from!
Frenetic African Spaces
I’m visiting the United States for the first time in nearly one year. I’m looking forward to the visi- particularly Taco Time, pho soup, and a variety of good beers- … and seeing friends and family, of course! But as I plan for my impending return to the US, I think of the things that I will miss here.
Ironically, I think I will miss the chaos and energy of the movement of people the most. Pedestrians and cars alike move, paradoxically, lethargically and franticly at the same time. I’ll miss adults and children running through the parking lot and streets, or just standing around chatting, indifferent to the moving traffic. Public areas always offer an abundance of stimulation- people moving about laughing, singing and talking. There’s a certain frenetic energy and vibrancy to the choreographed movements to which I am only now beginning to understand the moves.
I will also miss car guards. Car guards exist in nearly every parking lot and most city streets, at least the streets where the government doesn’t have paid employees stalking the streets to procure parking payments. Car guards often offer a nice smile and nod upon exiting the car, no doubt to ensure you acknowledge and compensate them upon your return. They survive only on the tips patrons provide them for ensuring their car is, firstly, there and secondly in working condition upon return. A couple of rands offered upon leaving usually results in another smile and the African tradition of respect by accepting the money with the right hand while the palm of the left hand holds the elbow of the right arm.
South Africa’s social systems maintain a distinct and intact human connectedness. While technology and mechanisation have dominated development in the United States, South Africa continues to invest in labour intensive solutions to day to day operations. This approach makes sense considering the 25 per cent unemployment rate and the enormous numbers of un- and low-skilled citizenry. Regardless, on a busy day when I’m frustrated and grumpy, it’s always nice to see a smiling face appreciative of two or three rands.
Ironically, I think I will miss the chaos and energy of the movement of people the most. Pedestrians and cars alike move, paradoxically, lethargically and franticly at the same time. I’ll miss adults and children running through the parking lot and streets, or just standing around chatting, indifferent to the moving traffic. Public areas always offer an abundance of stimulation- people moving about laughing, singing and talking. There’s a certain frenetic energy and vibrancy to the choreographed movements to which I am only now beginning to understand the moves.
I will also miss car guards. Car guards exist in nearly every parking lot and most city streets, at least the streets where the government doesn’t have paid employees stalking the streets to procure parking payments. Car guards often offer a nice smile and nod upon exiting the car, no doubt to ensure you acknowledge and compensate them upon your return. They survive only on the tips patrons provide them for ensuring their car is, firstly, there and secondly in working condition upon return. A couple of rands offered upon leaving usually results in another smile and the African tradition of respect by accepting the money with the right hand while the palm of the left hand holds the elbow of the right arm.
South Africa’s social systems maintain a distinct and intact human connectedness. While technology and mechanisation have dominated development in the United States, South Africa continues to invest in labour intensive solutions to day to day operations. This approach makes sense considering the 25 per cent unemployment rate and the enormous numbers of un- and low-skilled citizenry. Regardless, on a busy day when I’m frustrated and grumpy, it’s always nice to see a smiling face appreciative of two or three rands.
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