Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Tiba: good morning brandy

I wake up at about 6:00am. I wipe the sleep from my eyes and study my environment to be sure I have a grasp on what is going on. One friend that I came with is asleep in the back seat. His wife is gone, I’m certain she is preparing breakfast for the whole lot. I don’t see anybody else I know. I get out, stretch and see the sun is just peaking over the mountain. Trickles of hot sun pour through gaps in the mountain caps onto the rolling African fields. The sight is beautiful and makes me smile.

I dizzily mill around until I find somebody that I know. I was told then that I missed the best part of the wedding. I’m thinking “when exactly did this occur?”. I had heard about this part of the wedding. There is an on-going friendly rivalry between the bride’s side and groom’s side. Often before the wedding ceremony takes place there are a variety competitions. One competition is based on traditional dancing. I was told it was a great showing, but the bride’s side lost. I guess I’ll catch the next one.

Just then, I feel a tug. I look over my shoulder and am told to go immediately to the rondeval up the hill. “Are you sure?” I probe suspiciously. This news is suspect because last night I was told that I was strictly allowed only in certain areas; areas designated specifically for the bride’s family. And there was a rumour, which was later confirmed, that one of the bride’s guests wandered out of bounds and was caught. He was taken by the groom’s family- an embarrassment for the bride- only to have the elders from the bride’s family negotiate “bail” for his release. “I’m not falling for this one”, I think. I gaze into his eyes ensuring his honesty. My gut tells me it is now al right to do so, however I’m not sure why. I walk up the steep dirt road squinting as I face the sun now fully peaked over the mountains.

Outside the rondeval I am directed to be quiet and to go inside and sit on the right. I walk in and the room is full. Mostly full of ‘younger’ people (under 50 years or so). Some of the occupants are wearing traditional dance wear and I assume most didn’t get the luxury of the three hour nap that I had. But the people were vibrant and intent as they watched one after another stand up and vehemently argue... well, something that seemed very relevant and profound. I realized shortly afterward that I was instructed to sit on the right because the right side was the bride’s side and competition of oratory mastery was taking place. The Xhosa was too deep for me to understand much of it, but I could tell by the body language and intonation of the orator as well as the body language of the audience that our side was doing well.

Upon conclusion, a gentleman from the right side of the room greeted somebody from the left side of the room. They spoke briefly then the first gentleman seized the unopened bottle of brandy that had been lying in the center of the rondeval. Again, he spoke some words. Then he took a tot. Tots were then passed around and offered to everybody on the right side, the winning side. When everybody who chose to had their fill, the bottle was then given to those on the other side of the room. Afterwards, we leave to our separate compounds to prepare for the ceremony.

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